Over the years the clean beauty movement convinced millions of curlies to ditch sulfates, parabens, phthalates, and silicones. As consumer awareness increased, the haircare industry responded by formulating products without these ingredients to provide “safer” alternatives. But nobody talks about what replaced the ingredients everyone was avoiding.
I kept seeing people switch to “cleaner” curl products, yet they were still dealing with the same issues: dryness, buildup, and lackluster curls. The reason is because haircare companies replaced them with ingredients that do equally as bad damage to your hair.
In this article, I’ll walk you through some of the ingredients I recommend watching for and why I made the decision to blacklist them from our formulas.
IS IT REALLY SULFATE-FREE?
Sulfates are chemical compounds found in many personal care & cleaning products. The beauty industry removed common sulfates like Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) from their formulas because they earned a bad rep for being overly cleansing. They are known for stripping away your scalp’s natural moisture, which can contribute to dryness and irritation, particularly for sensitive scalps and color-treated hair.
So what are they using instead?
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate is a sulfate-free surfactant with intense lathering properties that are similar to sulfates (like SLS). Brands can use this ingredient and claim to be "sulfate-free," but all they've done is replace sulfates with equally as harsh and drying ingredients that can be too stripping for sensitive skin and color-treated hair.
Personally, from a formulator standpoint, I don't think all sulfates are inherently toxic, and sometimes they can be beneficial to tackle buildup. However, when incorporated in routines meant for daily washing, they can be overly cleansing and unnecessary. There are better alternatives available that are not only sulfate-free, but gentle on your scalp while still providing a deep cleanse.
How we formulated Differently:
Our shampoo formulas use Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI), that are ideal for all skin and hair types, particularly sensitive skin and baby care formulations. It offers a rich lather to your curls, while being far less stripping or irritating compared to harsh traditional surfactants like Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
For daily washing, our Clementine shampoo bar is a moisturizing shampoo bar that gently cleanses curls without stripping moisture, restoring softness, definition, and balance to your natural curl pattern. Made with ancestral botanicals like spirulina and shea butter for care that starts at the scalp and extends to your curls. Available in two sizes. Pricing: Mini $9.00 (1 month use)/ Full Size $25.00 (3+ Months).
Our Helix shampoo bar is the perfect option for curlies who are craving a deep cleanse that's not drying. This shampoo helps regulate oily scalps for longer days between washing, and dissolves product and hard water mineral buildup that might be blocking moisture from reaching your hair follicles. Available in two sizes. Pricing: Mini $9.00 (1 month use)/ Full Size $25.00 (3+ Months). Use code RITUAL10 for 10% off
IS IT REALLY PARABEN-FREE?
Parabens are a group of preservatives widely used in personal care & cleaning products to prevent harmful bacteria, yeast, and mold growth. However, parabens have gained controversy because many like Propylparaben, Isopropylparaben, Butylparaben, and other commonly used that start with methyl-, ethyl-, propyl-, isopropyl-, butyl- can act like the hormone estrogen in the body and disrupt the normal function of your hormone system. Studies have shown they affect the male and female reproductive system functioning, reproductive development, fertility and birth outcomes.
So what are they using instead?
Phenoxyethanol is a common preservative used in "clean" beauty products and considered safe for use in cosmetics at concentrations up to 1%, but over the years it’s become the target of a lot of fear-mongering (more on this below).
According to a European study on the consumer safety of this ingredient by the EU SCCS, it has been considered safe for use. But what's raised concern about this ingredient isn't necessarily the amount in a single product, it's the cumulative exposure is linked to skin irritation and potential issue to your liver and kidneys . A preservative used at 1% in a shampoo may seem insignificant. But your shampoo isn't the only product you use. Add a conditioner, leave-in conditioner, curl cream, gel, mousse, dry shampoo, body wash, lotion, and skincare products, and that small percentage can appear again and again throughout your daily routine. It's not about one product, but the total.
Think about it this way: spending $1 once doesn't seem like much. Most of us wouldn't think twice about it. But what if you spent $1 every day? That's $365 a year. Now imagine spending $1 every day across five different subscriptions, apps, or purchases. Suddenly, you're spending over $1,800 a year without realizing it. The same principle applies to personal care products.
How we formulated Differently:
Instead, we opted for preservatives Dehydroacetic Acid and Benzyl Alcohol that are eco-certified preservatives that are non-irritating, non-sensitizing, and well-tolerated at recommended usage levels. Compared to other preservatives on the market it has a low concerns for allergies, immunotoxicity, and reproductive toxicity.
IS IT REALLY SILICONE-FREE?
Silicones have been widely used in the cosmetics particularly popular in conditioners, colorants, or styling products because they act as either emollients, humectants, film formers, and anti-static for frizz control. Silicones like Dimethicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, and Amodimethicone (and more) have shown to cause long-term effects like build-up, greasiness, and scalp accumulation. Using hair products made with heavy, occlusive silicones could make your curls drier because they create an invisible film around your follicles that slowly suffocate your hair and prevent water from entering.
Many silicone derivatives end in:
-cone (like Amodimethicone)
-conol (like dimethiconol)
-siloxane (like cyclopentasiloxane)
So what are they using instead?
Coconut Oil has become a popular oil in haircare because it smoothes down the hair's cuticle and acts as a natural barrier that prevents environmental humidity from disrupting your curl pattern. However, Coconut oil does not offer the "slip" your hair needs to stay soft. Your hair needs real emollients to to manage dry, rough, scaly, or irritated skin. Oils are not conditioning. And if you're skin is prone to breakouts, coconut oil can be too heavy and easily weigh down fine or low-porosity hair, leading to greasy, limp curls.
Again, from a formulator standpoint, I don't think coconut oil is bad, as it has been proven to be an incredible oil for hair. However, when incorporated in your routine frequently it can suffocate your curls and clogs your scalp. If you’re prone to acne, it’s likely your scalp is just as sensitive and it can lead to dandruff and an itchy scalp.
How we formulated Differently:
Instead, I opted for 100% plant-derived silicone alternatives using ingredients like Brassica-Alcohol. Unlike harsh drying alcohols, it softens, smooths frizz, and provides excellent "slip" to your hair without leaving a greasy residue, serving as a sustainable, eco-friendly alternative.
Our Haven conditioner bar is a curl-defining conditioner to instantly detangle, smooth frizz, and bring dry curls back to life. Made with ancestral botanicals like hemp protein, cocoa butter, and shea butter that deliver rich moisture and promote healthy, soft, and bouncy curls. Available in two sizes, but for a better experience for thick, long curls I recommend going with the full-size option.
Pricing: Mini $9.00 (1 month use)/ Full Size $25.00 (3+ Months). Use code RITUAL10 for 10% off
The goal isn't fear, it's awareness.
I know that the world of ingredients is overwhelming and complicated, and it's hard to distinguish between an effective product because so many brands pay to promote themselves. But as a conscious consumer and formulator, one thing I've learned is to never trust what's on the front of a package. Instead it's important to go directly to the ingredient list on the back. I created Sudz Cauldron to help you not only discover better products for your curls, but to help you learn more about the ingredients found in your everyday.
Use code RITUAL10 for 10% off your next purchase and see what your hair’s been missing.
Disclaimer
The information I’ve shared here is for educational purposes only and shouldn’t replace professional medical advice. Always check with a qualified healthcare provider before starting any new health regimen.